 |
| I love the sound of breaking glass. |
 |
| Aiming for a backside cover-up. |
E.G.O.S = (Evening glass-off session)
Wednesday, 26 May 2010
E.G.O.S 13:55
E.G.O.S = (Evening glass-off session)
E.G.O.S 13:55
|
| I love the sound of breaking glass. |
|
| Aiming for a backside cover-up. |
E.G.O.S = (Evening glass-off session)
Tuesday, 25 May 2010
DO THE GODS PLAY NOUGHTS & CROSSES? 16:19
 |
| Wow! What an amazing run of weather; sun, warmth & the bluest skies... and a few waves too! |
DO THE GODS PLAY NOUGHTS & CROSSES? 16:19
|
| Wow! What an amazing run of weather; sun, warmth & the bluest skies... and a few waves too! |
Monday, 24 May 2010
Thursday, 20 May 2010
STRANDED 18:13
STRANDED 18:13
Monday, 17 May 2010
HISTORY LESSON - PART II 13:58
 |
| Front pump. |
Just been given these old snaps of the much younger me skating the bowl at Playing Place. This was in the days before Patrick Best and Andrew Garner built the infamous extension, so I'm guessing it's either 77 or 78. On a Dogown Red Dog - Jim Muir, looks like Trackers, Green Kryps and a home-made tail saver.
 |
| Front punt. |
Photos courtesy: Andrew Garner
HISTORY LESSON - PART II 13:58
|
| Front pump. |
Just been given these old snaps of the much younger me skating the bowl at Playing Place. This was in the days before Patrick Best and Andrew Garner built the infamous extension, so I'm guessing it's either 77 or 78. On a Dogown Red Dog - Jim Muir, looks like Trackers, Green Kryps and a home-made tail saver.
|
| Front punt. |
Photos courtesy: Andrew Garner
Friday, 14 May 2010
Thursday, 13 May 2010
IT'S A NUM3ER5 GAME 08:36
 |
Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!
What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...
Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.
Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.
Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.
Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.
Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.
One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in.
Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.
Based on a true story.
IT'S A NUM3ER5 GAME 08:36
|
Check the forecast and it's saying 3-4ft at 13 seconds. Alright!
What are the winds doing? Light SE but building to 15-20mph and swinging south westerly later. Have to get in sooner rather than later then...
Check the tides - low at 8.50am and it's a big one at 6.9m, so aim for mid-tide on the push.
Which board, the new 8'6 or the 9'0 Skinny? Lovin' the Slide Projector at the moment - so stick with that.
Load up, get gas on the way - 30 quid hardly nudges the needle past half-way. Get to the beach, how many out? A quick scan of the line up reveals at least 15 already in and half a dozen more cars pulling into the carpark.
Suit on in just over one minute. Paddle out, catch a couple.
Whoah! Big set looming, scratch over the first. Damn, at least another 5 or 6 behind, just manage to punch through the second. C'mon, dig deep and ten or twenty hard strokes will sort it.
One and a half hours later and a dozen good rides, time to head in.
Today the numbers all added up, a good session. Go home happy.
Based on a true story.
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
BLUE & YELLOW 16:09
 |
| David Hockney put in plenty of hours studying water. |
So as the UK political landscape changes colour to blue with a splash of yellow...
(At least it gives me an excuse to admire Hockney's view of a Californian swimming pool painted in 1967)
BLUE & YELLOW 16:09
|
| David Hockney put in plenty of hours studying water. |
So as the UK political landscape changes colour to blue with a splash of yellow...
(At least it gives me an excuse to admire Hockney's view of a Californian swimming pool painted in 1967)
Tuesday, 11 May 2010
Thursday, 6 May 2010
INTERVIEW - CHRIS HINES 09:26
 |
| Chris Hines with his trusty 7'2. Photo: Andy Hughes |
Journalist, campaigner, environmentalist, media presenter, motivational speaker, inspirational thinker and of-course, last but definitely not least, surfer. Chris's love affair with the sea has taken him from being more than just a participant to dedicating his life to making not only the ocean, but the environment as a whole something we can all enjoy for many generations to come.
When did you become aware of surfing?
My folks first took me to Widemouth when I was a couple of months old. Earliest memories are from when I was about 4/5 and I had my own wooden bellyboard by age 6! First proper board aged 12. There was a great surfing book in Tavistock School library and I used to always read it in library session!
Can you remember catching your first green wave?
Think my first green wave was during an epic 5 hour session when I was 13 at Sennen. Just pushing out and catching small inside waves and one suddenly reformed...
I know you try and get in the water as much as possible, just what exactly is it that keeps you coming back for more?
Being in the water, one decent wave and it's been a good session. That interaction with natural energy and the environment. Being away from the pressure of normal life. Importantly, every day has something and even if it's not great surf then remember that you could be a member of the Bosnian surf team at which point 2 ft onshore mush would be the best day of the decade!
 |
| Going for a backside cover up! Photo: Andy Hughes |
Any particular board over the years that you would pick as a favourite?
The board I currently ride and have been riding for 5 years or so. 7'2 mini mal. Ultra light and thin. I can pretty much surf anything I want on it. It's beaten to the point of nearly being more ding than board but because it's a Homeblown blank the foam is hydro phobic and doesn't suck water so remains light. I love it!
What board do you ride these days?
Ditto above - also have a fat nose heavier mini mal for those tiny days - slide!
How do you feel about surf travel and are there any particular places you'd like to surf yourself?
Surf travel is an element of surfing that has always been there and has helped spread the sport. With climate change it's a hard one and one we should all think about. The guys from Rough Guide and Lonely Planet recommend staying longer once you have travelled and I'm sure that will be music to surf travellers ears. But seriously, value it and try to ensure that you blend and don't just take. I've been to Morocco many times and surfed a break down there nearly 30 years ago that had only 5 or 6 of us in the water on a 300 yard right hander. Now it's packed but still sweet!
You've witnessed the incredible boom in surfing's popularity, what are your views on that?
Kind of inevitable boom - it's such a great thing to do that it was bound to get really popular. Wetsuits have made a huge difference. Even though it's packed you still get good quiet sessions - I had a couple at Porthtowan which is a very popular break, in April - peak to myself and 45 minutes of every wave I wanted. Think people should mellow out a bit and enjoy other people having a wave. Call someone into a wave and take pleasure from that. If someone is in a better place don't try and snake them.
What effect do you imagine the apparent continuing growth of surfing will have in the next 5-10 years?
More people in the water and more breaks discovered and surfed. It's amazing what people do now and the waves they surf.
And following on from the last question; Do you see any differences in the attitude or approach to life of the younger generation?
Every generation was the younger generation once and will be the older generation in time. Have respect for everyone. It's definitely more hassley in the water now when it gets crowded but some of the hassle is from the older crew as much as the younger. Enjoy it.
There can't be very many MBEs sitting out in the lineup, how do you feel about receiving that award?
Obviously a great honour and who'd have thought it! But it's just me, same as I (it) ever was (Talking Heads).
 |
| Chris at Mermaid Beach, Australia and yet another CSO. Photo: Swilly |
Does music play a part in your life?
Love music of all kinds, have a good sound system and computer linked in.
You've attended your fair share of gigs, having organised the SAS Ball for many years and been involved with music events at Eden, are there any live performances that stand out for you?
I was privileged to introduce the bands onto stage at the SAS Ball. Faithless would have to go down as one of the highlights but there were many great bands who played the Ball and some great DJ sets. Can remember seeing Joan Armatrading and Supertramp on same gig when I was 13. She was back up artist. Lee Scratch Perry at the Cornwall Coliseum (now defunct!). Crickey could go on all day...
Do you have a favourite book or author?
Highest Tide by Jim Lynch, all John Le Carre, the Michael Peterson biography, John Pilger - Heroes (everyone should read this!).
How about films?
Avatar is brilliant! Free Ride, always amazing. Films of our times, Apocalypse Now, All That Jazz...
Are you interested in any other art forms?
Photos of the likes of Andy Hughes (buy his Dominant Wave Theory), Kurt Jackson, gob smacking sculptures and obviously you just can't beat the art of nature...
You've taken a very pioneering approach with your work, were there any specific influences for that or is that just a natural process for you?
Natural process, and I guess many people of my age grew up seeing Maggie Thatcher and the scrapping of society in her eyes. Miners strikes, threat of nuclear, if I see injustice it kind of makes me have to have a go!!!
Who or what inspires you?
Natural world, friends, people who are in really tough places in life and yet do amazing things. When I was in my early teens I used to go on holiday to Sennen and watched Harvey Hoare, Rob Smith and Colin Wilson surf. Along with the late Paul "Ju" Jury and Paul Westaway from Widemouth these were key influences on my surfing.
 |
| Chris, always stoked. Photo: Andy Hughes |
You've been involved with numerous projects over the years, any that you are particularly proud of?
SAS! Some of the talks I get to do that set out to inspire change. Helping to organise the Live 8 concert at Eden - 3 weeks and we nailed it (Howard Jones was another key player in that but a great team effort). Nelson Mandela talked to Eden live from Jo'Burg and Jo'Burg could see Eden. Blue Gym has got off to a good start with a great national launch and some good things happening.
Chris your past achievements and activities are many and well documented, so just what exactly do you have on your passport now as occupation?
Environmental consultant. You have to be a bit careful otherwise you might not get in!
What's next?
A Grain of Sand - my new company/organisation - inspiring and driving change. Watch this space - wesbite shoud be ready and launched end of June!
Thanks Chris.
Chris Hines is a co-founder of SAS (Surfers Against Sewage) and former Director. He was Sustainability Director at the Eden Project 2001-2007. Chris was awarded an MBE for services to the environment in 2008. He is involved in the start up of Blue Gym as well as a freelance motivational speaker and adviser on a variety of issues.
INTERVIEW - CHRIS HINES 09:26
|
| Chris Hines with his trusty 7'2. Photo: Andy Hughes |
Journalist, campaigner, environmentalist, media presenter, motivational speaker, inspirational thinker and of-course, last but definitely not least, surfer. Chris's love affair with the sea has taken him from being more than just a participant to dedicating his life to making not only the ocean, but the environment as a whole something we can all enjoy for many generations to come.
When did you become aware of surfing?
My folks first took me to Widemouth when I was a couple of months old. Earliest memories are from when I was about 4/5 and I had my own wooden bellyboard by age 6! First proper board aged 12. There was a great surfing book in Tavistock School library and I used to always read it in library session!
Can you remember catching your first green wave?
Think my first green wave was during an epic 5 hour session when I was 13 at Sennen. Just pushing out and catching small inside waves and one suddenly reformed...
I know you try and get in the water as much as possible, just what exactly is it that keeps you coming back for more?
Being in the water, one decent wave and it's been a good session. That interaction with natural energy and the environment. Being away from the pressure of normal life. Importantly, every day has something and even if it's not great surf then remember that you could be a member of the Bosnian surf team at which point 2 ft onshore mush would be the best day of the decade!
|
| Going for a backside cover up! Photo: Andy Hughes |
Any particular board over the years that you would pick as a favourite?
The board I currently ride and have been riding for 5 years or so. 7'2 mini mal. Ultra light and thin. I can pretty much surf anything I want on it. It's beaten to the point of nearly being more ding than board but because it's a Homeblown blank the foam is hydro phobic and doesn't suck water so remains light. I love it!
What board do you ride these days?
Ditto above - also have a fat nose heavier mini mal for those tiny days - slide!
How do you feel about surf travel and are there any particular places you'd like to surf yourself?
Surf travel is an element of surfing that has always been there and has helped spread the sport. With climate change it's a hard one and one we should all think about. The guys from Rough Guide and Lonely Planet recommend staying longer once you have travelled and I'm sure that will be music to surf travellers ears. But seriously, value it and try to ensure that you blend and don't just take. I've been to Morocco many times and surfed a break down there nearly 30 years ago that had only 5 or 6 of us in the water on a 300 yard right hander. Now it's packed but still sweet!
You've witnessed the incredible boom in surfing's popularity, what are your views on that?
Kind of inevitable boom - it's such a great thing to do that it was bound to get really popular. Wetsuits have made a huge difference. Even though it's packed you still get good quiet sessions - I had a couple at Porthtowan which is a very popular break, in April - peak to myself and 45 minutes of every wave I wanted. Think people should mellow out a bit and enjoy other people having a wave. Call someone into a wave and take pleasure from that. If someone is in a better place don't try and snake them.
What effect do you imagine the apparent continuing growth of surfing will have in the next 5-10 years?
More people in the water and more breaks discovered and surfed. It's amazing what people do now and the waves they surf.
And following on from the last question; Do you see any differences in the attitude or approach to life of the younger generation?
Every generation was the younger generation once and will be the older generation in time. Have respect for everyone. It's definitely more hassley in the water now when it gets crowded but some of the hassle is from the older crew as much as the younger. Enjoy it.
There can't be very many MBEs sitting out in the lineup, how do you feel about receiving that award?
Obviously a great honour and who'd have thought it! But it's just me, same as I (it) ever was (Talking Heads).
|
| Chris at Mermaid Beach, Australia and yet another CSO. Photo: Swilly |
Does music play a part in your life?
Love music of all kinds, have a good sound system and computer linked in.
You've attended your fair share of gigs, having organised the SAS Ball for many years and been involved with music events at Eden, are there any live performances that stand out for you?
I was privileged to introduce the bands onto stage at the SAS Ball. Faithless would have to go down as one of the highlights but there were many great bands who played the Ball and some great DJ sets. Can remember seeing Joan Armatrading and Supertramp on same gig when I was 13. She was back up artist. Lee Scratch Perry at the Cornwall Coliseum (now defunct!). Crickey could go on all day...
Do you have a favourite book or author?
Highest Tide by Jim Lynch, all John Le Carre, the Michael Peterson biography, John Pilger - Heroes (everyone should read this!).
How about films?
Avatar is brilliant! Free Ride, always amazing. Films of our times, Apocalypse Now, All That Jazz...
Are you interested in any other art forms?
Photos of the likes of Andy Hughes (buy his Dominant Wave Theory), Kurt Jackson, gob smacking sculptures and obviously you just can't beat the art of nature...
You've taken a very pioneering approach with your work, were there any specific influences for that or is that just a natural process for you?
Natural process, and I guess many people of my age grew up seeing Maggie Thatcher and the scrapping of society in her eyes. Miners strikes, threat of nuclear, if I see injustice it kind of makes me have to have a go!!!
Who or what inspires you?
Natural world, friends, people who are in really tough places in life and yet do amazing things. When I was in my early teens I used to go on holiday to Sennen and watched Harvey Hoare, Rob Smith and Colin Wilson surf. Along with the late Paul "Ju" Jury and Paul Westaway from Widemouth these were key influences on my surfing.
|
| Chris, always stoked. Photo: Andy Hughes |
You've been involved with numerous projects over the years, any that you are particularly proud of?
SAS! Some of the talks I get to do that set out to inspire change. Helping to organise the Live 8 concert at Eden - 3 weeks and we nailed it (Howard Jones was another key player in that but a great team effort). Nelson Mandela talked to Eden live from Jo'Burg and Jo'Burg could see Eden. Blue Gym has got off to a good start with a great national launch and some good things happening.
Chris your past achievements and activities are many and well documented, so just what exactly do you have on your passport now as occupation?
Environmental consultant. You have to be a bit careful otherwise you might not get in!
What's next?
A Grain of Sand - my new company/organisation - inspiring and driving change. Watch this space - wesbite shoud be ready and launched end of June!
Thanks Chris.
Chris Hines is a co-founder of SAS (Surfers Against Sewage) and former Director. He was Sustainability Director at the Eden Project 2001-2007. Chris was awarded an MBE for services to the environment in 2008. He is involved in the start up of Blue Gym as well as a freelance motivational speaker and adviser on a variety of issues.
